Nosefish Shower

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The rest was easy and now you can't screw up anymore! I applied glue to both of ends of one of the riser sides and holding the middle portion on the ground with my foot, I pressed the shower bar onto both ends simultaneously. I used my weight to push down on both of them at the same time, being careful not to twist the rectangle that was formed. Then I repeated the process to attach the other riser side.

Once the center of the gantry is made, you'll use the same technique you used on the riser sides and the shower bar to attach the gantry sides to the entire center structure. That is, you'll use the ground to stabilize the center structure, and you'll push the gantry sides into the center structure evenly, without introducing a twist.

The finished gantry. It should sit squarely on the ground. Note: you should not glue the vertical side tubes in ever! They are always just slip fit into the gantry. You need to be able to remove them for transport.
Now lets finish the base. You'll drill a 3/4" hole, which is slightly smaller than the straight piece, and use the angle piece to screw the straight piece into the shower. Drill the hole so it cuts slightly into the plywood (about 1/16"). You can use a screwdriver inserted into the angle pipe to get some leverage.
Notice that the pipe doesn't protrude into the shower where a toe could get cut? See that a bit of the plywood has been cut out by the drill, to facilitate drainage.
You can simply twist the plastic tube into the angled brass fitting. I used about 14" of plastic tube. I will probably cut off another 6" when I'm ready to use it because I think this is too long.
The shower is designed to make it easy to get the water back into a 2.5 gallon water container. You'll cut a hole in the top of one and insert the tube. Then you can use that container to pour the water into another 2.5 gallon container that doesn't have a hole cut in it. You could also make your shower taller, but then you might need a step to get in.
I used some construction adhesive to raise the level of the corner so water doesn't accumulate there, and to seal the plywood where the drain hole was cut.
Notice that I didn't remove the excess adhesive from the inside edes where the corners and sides met. The adhesive will keep the shower base from leaking.
Tip from the playa: Use silicon caulking around the entire seam on the inside, and an inch or two up the corners. This will prevent leaks. We found that the construction adhesive cracked under heavy use and then water leaked out. Be sure to use enough screws in the base so that the heaviest people in your camp won't separate the base from the sides. Figure each screw can take 40 lbs, but someone who stands near an edge may put most of their weight on a few screws. So, space them every 6" for normal sized people, or every 4" for heavy people. You might also consider making additional legs for the sides, or even an additional leg right in the middle of the base.
This is a forstner bit -- I used one like this to drill the drain hole. Any bit the right size will do. I used a 3/4" bit.
You'll need at least four of these screw eyes if you use bungie balls to secure the vertical risers the way I did.

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